Two Guns, Arizona. Road-weary, pulling off at a randomly chosen exit sign in the desert midway to flagstaff, we found ourselves in an eerie non-place. 
A modern but gutted gas station gave way to a desolate camping area, but off to the side, barely visible… 
We found much older, stranger structures perched over a dry canyon pockmarked with caves. Later, we discovered this to be the remains of a zoo, constructed over “apache death caves” on the edge of “Canyon Diablo” in the first half of the last century.
Earlier, in holbrook: 
